Wednesday, January 14, 2015

Eis suchen

Turning into ice climbing mode goes usually quite easily. Free climbing is slowly getting colder, wetter, and darker. When indoor climbing starts to feel like a tempting idea, you know it’s time to pick up axes and start training figure fours.

This year has been different, mostly because we are not in Umeå anymore. The weather is a bit warmer here and even though it’s already mid January, free climbing season is still going strong. At least if you are willing to drive a bit. 

Last weekend was the first time I actually tried to find some ice. I had a new guidebook for ice routes, sharp axes and a partner who has never climbed ice before. 

Totes Weib is a mixed climbing area in Mürztal. It was pretty warm, and even though the crag is at 900 meters, this is what was left from the ice. I wasn't too disappointed. After all, I was mostly interested about a good looking M9+, which was very steep and possible to climb without any ice. "14 figures four", says the guidebook.

 Of course the cool M9+ was on the other side of the river. "walk over the river when there is no water" says the guidebook. "Or make a rope bridge"

  We decided to check out another mixed climbing crag at Adlitzgräben. On the way we saw some nice walls at Rax (2007m)

 Nice couloirs!

 More R/X-skiing

 A new sector close to Adlitzgräben mixedwand

 At first we were a bit unsure if the crag was for mixed climbing, but apparently so. This is also a good reminder for those who would like to do some drytooling on free climbing crags. Don't do it.

It is steep! Later I found out that there are mixed routes up to M10

 This is the older mixed sector in Adlitzgräben. However, it was very warm and the free climbing sector was just a few hundres meters away....

 ...So we went to free climb instead :)

 Sun went down, but it was still incredibly warm.

 This was taken on the way back home...still quite warm!

 Next day was colder, so I came back to climb something with axes. This guy was bolting a new mixed route. He is the one who has established all mixed routes in the area.

 More random photos from last week. Hohe wand a week ago. The top is at 1100 and there was 50 cm of fresh snow...we should have gone snowboarding instead of climbing!


 The crag is south facing, and one of winter crags (for free climbing) around Vienna. 

 It's a bit like Niemisel in the spring season

The top on the wall was wet, probably because of the heavy snow fall from the previous day.

Hinterbrühl yesterday

 This is a shitty little crag, but it's just 5 km from our apartment.

 Sometimes I miss Swedish badass winter. Sometimes I'm pretty happy how things are.