Hatschi Bratschi Luftballon (8- A0) is one of the steepest and hardest long routes at Hohe Wand. The route is pretty sustained at UIAA 7, 8-, A0, 7+, 8-, 7+, 4 but the crux pitch (A0) is obviously harder free climbing than the rest of the route.
Andreas told me that the aid pitch is a steep hand crack, and if I am good with cracks I might be able to do it. The crux pitch has been tried to be freed for a while, and the latest info I found was that “redpointing is close, free climbing grade would be 9+ (7c+) ”.
Me on the route for the first time
The second pitch is super steep and juggy 6c+. We decided to go light and fast. No backpacks and with only one 40-meters rope, which makes rappelling the route pretty much impossible.
Andreas on the second pitch
Working the crux pitch. It’s hard, but very doable.
However, the biggest problem wasn’t climbing, but belaying. It doesn’t get much more uncomfortable than this.
Andreas working the crux. We both did all the moves, and thought it would be a bit easier than the proposed 7c+. However, I don’t think these suggestions matter until it’s done.
After the crux the climbing gets more vertical.
Andreas on the fourth pitch, still pretty exposed climbing
Andreas starts his block
Superb climbing on a pocketed wall, almost like in Verdon
Higher up on the wall, one more pitch to go.
The route tops out in the center of the Skywalk
Next time at Hohe Wand, now with Anu.
Good friction day?
The weather got finally better
Starting the second pitch
Advanced top roping skills
This time we decided to haul the gear
And use a belay seat
Can you spot me in the photo?
It was still too cold so we decided to rappel down
Third time on the route
Lowering down back to the anchor is a bit trickier than usual
The beginning of the crux pitch is also a bit tricky
Andreas in the hand jam section
Time to move on
I don’t usually use rope organizers, but they are great if you are hauling
The top part was as good as ever.
It was a long day, but we climbed everything free, and we both redpointed the crux pitch. Our grade suggestion for the crux pitch is UIAA 9- (or 7b+). This was one of the days to remember.