Thursday, April 24, 2014

Ängesbyn

Ängesbyn is a nice bouldering area close to Luleå. It reminds me of Åland and Mosjön, superb lines on huge blocks. Even if you don't like bouldering, it´s hard not to like this place. The best problems are in the 7a-8a range but there are also some easier lines for fatties.


The best introduction to the area is probably Jani Lehtola´s video


Approach in a snowy forest 


One of the many blocks


 Mind set to motion 7C(+/-)




 A nice highball-crack


Build to last 7C. I guess the name refers to landing, which surprisingly was done by Finns! This was one of the best boulders I've ever climbed.



Raging bull 7A


 Anu & Raging bull 7A


The new fragrance fuck OFF 7B and the new landing. This landing wasn't very popular among the first ascensionists as it blocks the first two moves.


Sitstart or not, this is a must-do problem!


 Mats on The new fragrance fuck OFF 7B


 The last move, a dyno to the top-jug, is the crux


  I got tired and decided to put up some easier lines. This red wall is a nice warm up, maybe 6a.


 Another warm up, maybe 6a as well


 Anu did this wide crack. With some eliminations you can get good training for off-widths.


 Bollen 6b, a short but surprisingly nice boulder. This is located on the left side of Oblivion 7c+


 Mats asked if the trees were on the way... not really, except for the photos



Oblivion 7C+. Linus did it in a short session, very nice!


We also climbed on Brändön. For those who are wondering if it's worth visiting...well, not really.

Tuesday, April 1, 2014

Spain

There are different types of climbing and different types of climbing trips. There are climbing trips that you plan for a long time, maybe even for years. You spend sleepless nights and train like a madman to be fit enough to stay alive.

And then there are climbing trips that you do only because you happen to find cheap flights.



Montsant


Johan & Rata arraconada 7a


This steep wall is the best part of Racó de Missa. Sadly, it's all pretty hard.


More Montsant, can you spot a climber on a 60 meter Camino del Rey 7b+?


Sector L'Obaga del Falcó in Arbolí


This was the crappiest crag we visited, even though Johan thinks it's "så jävla bra!"


A small ramp leads to a few steeper routes on the left side... no chalk on routes seems to be a good quality meter.


This is the best thing you can do in Falcó. You can take nice photos of Siurana


El Cargol, a cool pillar in Siurana. A climber on a 40-meter Populus 7a.


El Pati, this is where La Rambla 9a+ is located


L'Olla. For me, this was probably the best sector in Siurana (I don't like technical stuff)

Steep and juggy! Johan trying Bistec de Bíceps 7b+.


Me getting my ass kicked on Pota d'Elefant 7c+


Alexander Megos (I think) cruising up The Monster House (8c:ish project in the guidebook)


His friend wasn't too bad either, 8a+ on the 2nd go. "Yes this was a nice day, 8c, 8b+, 8a+..."


Brokeback mountain


These guys again!?


Unknown climber on sector El Pati. La Rambla 9a+ is around the corner


Margalef, Racó de les Espadelles. This was easily the best crag we visited.


La Gomorra 7b+. One of the best routes I climbed.


Johan & La Drecera 7b



 A 25-meter jugfest


Anu & Qué pasa Neng? 7a

Linus & Franja de Ponent 7a


Some crags around Margalef


Sector El Laboratori. Steep enough?


Linus & La Gomorra 7b+


Wtf is wrong with my fingers?


For some reason Johan decided to kick Linus in the leg. But no worries, Johan is a doctor!


Margalef offers also some easier climbing. Petra & Per Comencar 6a+


Magnus & an unknown 7a+


This seems to be the main hobby for climbers' kids


Margalef in the sunset, helt okej!


Back in Siurana. This sector is La Siuranella. You can see sectors L'Olla, El Pati and El Cargol on the right hand side.


More Siuranella

 Johan & Gruyére 6b


 Looked like a nice warm up


Magnus & Filiprim 6a+


Siuranella was pretty windy, and a bit too vertical, so we decided to drive to Can Melafots, the upper sector in Siurana


Unknown climber & Boys don't cry 7c


If bacon breakfast is the best part of ice climbing, "myseld" with a cold one is the best part of sport climbing.


Our happy team!


Cornudella de Montsant


Downjacket-gang on the move


Madrid - Barcelona


Go Barca!


More random photos


Respect!!


Montsant again


Montsant from the other side


Mornings were cold


Cars didn't work


and sport climbing basically sucks.


Ok, it wasn't all bad.


Like eating in the sun was pretty nice.


Question of the week: wtf is this?