Monday, May 25, 2015

Pit stop in Mödling

Mr Boulderkeskus did what most climbers can only dream of. He bought a campervan, gave up his apartment and drove away from Finland. Working remotely, climbing daily, is surely living the dream of many. Rest days are perfect for working, and when the weather gets shitty it's time to move on to the next crag.

Jarmo has been on the road since the beginning of May, and it will be interesting to see how this "working on the road"-project goes, as a long-term solution. So far the only problem seems to be his unlimited Internet connection, which turned out to be not-so-unlimited. You can find more specs about the campervan and follow Jarmo's trip around Europe here.

Last Saturday, the California arrived to Mödling and it was time for Jarmo and Jussi to get a touch of Austrian limestone.

 The first place to visit was obviously Peilstein

 Jarmo and Jussi excited about the day's adventure

 Jarmo belaying on top of the second pitch of Weg der Erstersteigen 3+

 Anu on Skone-Variante 5-. It's a nice variation to Weg der Erstersteigen on a pocketed wall.

 A happy man on the top of Cimone


 Anu & Direkte Vegatarierkante 5+, Cimone on the background

 This is a super nice and exposed route; the last bit was even a bit overhanging

 Any day in Peilstein is a good day

Jarmo seems to agree

 Jussi & In der Hölle ist der Teufel los 7a

 Anu on Kleine Fee vom Praterstern 6b, Jussi & Jarmo on Tanz der kleinen Feen 6a

 Next day at Thalhofergrat. I had a good day, I did both Zen 8a and Zen light 7a+. I was pretty happy as Zen is probably the hardest sport route I've done and this was my third climbing day in a row.

 Jussi & Gruselkabinett 6a+

 Jarmo & Osterei 6c+ 

 After a day of sport climbing it was time for longer routes again. This is Draschgrat UIAA 5+, 200 m / 7 pitches at Hohe Wand. It is super nice route and follows a cool buttress on solid rock. 

 "It's just like cross country skiing but more fun"

 I have climbed the route a few times before, but this was the first time I actually pitched every pitch. A couple of times the belay was already occupied but improvising a new anchor on this route is very easy to do. All bolts are glued-in bolts and you can also put in some trad gear if needed.

 The last pitch of Draschgrat

Few more moves and then it's time to find some Weizenbier (there are restaurants at the top of Hohe Wand)

 Next day at Arnstein Höhle.

 Jussi & Mutzsteig 5, very nice climbing for the grade

 Jarmo onsighting Mojito 7a

 Jussi onsighting Horizontaler kraftakt 6c+, a juggy route at the roof of the cave

 "A head lamp would have been nice"

 Jarmo redpointing Rock ballet 7c/7c+."Für Hallenfreunde", as the guidebook says. 

 Efeugrat. It's about 1 km from our apartment.

 Jussi about the get spanked by Fingerbeisser 7a/7a+

 Jussi working on Sondereinsatz 8a+. It's raining, but the route was steep enough to stay dry.

 Art photo of the day: A Fire salamander

Btw. I'm arranging climbing courses again. If you are interested in for example multipitch course in Peilstein or Hohe Wand, send me an e-mail or check out my courses at

Sunday, April 26, 2015

Valtsu in Austria

Valtsu came to visit us a while ago.  The weather was quite bad when he arrived but he didn't complain. After all, he was stuck at Vienna airport, as I forgot to pick him up. 

Luckily there was free Internet and a McDonalds at the airport to cheer him up while I tried to figure out how to get him to Mödling. We managed in the end, so here are some photos from the trip.

 After some mandatory weizenbier,  I managed to convince Valtsu that scrambling in the rain would be fun.

 On the top of Cimone, we slipped the rain with just a few minutes. 

  The top of Cimone is actually pretty exposed. This photo from last fall shows better how it is. 

 Next day at Adlitzgräben, it was still pretty cold.

 Valtsu on King size 7a

 This is a "must do"-route for everyone

 Me getting spanked on Out of work 8a

 "Maybe we should try something easier?"

 Me getting spanked on Street fighter 7c

 Valtsu on Street fighter

 I think I wore a down jacket twice this winter; the other time was while climbing ice at Altenberg.

 Next day at Hohe wand

 Valtsu looks a bit suspicious about the day's adventure

 The plan was to climb Kronjuwel 7+, a 10-pitch long route, but for some reason there was a no-no sign at the beginning.

 So, without a guidebook, we decided to climb Zukunftsweiser 7+ . This I had already climbed with Sampsa so I knew the route.

Anu on the sharp end after I convinced her that the rock would get more solid.

Anu at the long reach 
© Valtsu

 Valtsu enjoying the overhanging, juggy dihedral

 Anu at the crux

 I have to dyno the crux. Somehow, both Valtsu and Anu did it statically...

 Valtsu looks pretty suspicious still

 Anu at the last overhanging part of the route

 The weather got even worse in Mödling, so we headed to Hochkar.

 A good idea, but the wind got so strong that they closed the whole ski resort. (Five minutes after we had bought the tickets...) 

 No crowds at the top

 Valtsu riding some virgin slush

 Hochkar looks like a nice place. Too bad the lift is not on.

At least the bar was open

 Later they opened one lift...

 ...which they closed again after a while.

It wasn't the best weather I've seen in the mountains, but probably better than a rainy day in Mödling. Or a rainy day in Helsinki.