Sunday, January 25, 2015

Weekend warrior in Austria

Sampsa is known for his weekend trips around Europe. Longer climbing trips might be hard to combine with a family life, but sometimes a long weekend is all you need to climb something big.

This is actually often the case even when you have a lot of time. I have found that if I spent two weeks in Lofoten Islands, I would usually climb only one “big” route. A long route takes seldom more than a day or two and the rest of the climbing trip I would spend climbing shorter routes or resting from the long route. But these things you can also do at home. 

Anyhow, this time the plan was to climb some ice routes in Austria. A lovely idea, but as I posted last week, it’s a bit shy of ice at the moment. 

The good thing about Austria is that you can always find something to do. And I’m not just talking about cheap weissbeer.


Hohewand 17.1.2015.  +9 C.


We climbed  Zukunftsweiser 7+ UIAA, 180 meters

Sampsa & a tricky 6+ corner


The crux was a cool overhanging dihedral




Sampsa made quite an impression to the local girls at the top. It took less than 30 seconds and the girls were more than happy to give us a lift to our car. 


The next day was nice and sunny in Mödling, but for some reason we decided to drive to the base of Schneeberg, where it was not nice or sunny. Hiking in the rain is always super fun, but somehow we ended up here.


Slacklining at Kletterhalle Wien. At the same time Anu was snowboarding at Stuhleck, and soon powder riding started to sound like a good idea. 




Obertauern is voted for the best ski resort in Austria, and there should be about 140 cm of snow.


Obertauern


Helt okej!


Not much fresh powder, but we took what we got


Good thing about living in Austria is that you can make a day trip to a place like this


Sampsa & the clouds


We decided to hike a bit to find some virgin snow


Sampsa droppin’ in


Rainbow, halo, or some other cool stuff


Next day, back in Lower Austria. This is Adlitzmix mix M7/M7+ at Adlitzgräben


Steep and pumpy!


Sampsa made a cramponless ascent. 


We also found yet another mixed crag. It doesn’t look too special, but take a look at the draws...it’s pretty damn steep!

Wednesday, January 14, 2015

Eis suchen

Turning into ice climbing mode goes usually quite easily. Free climbing is slowly getting colder, wetter, and darker. When indoor climbing starts to feel like a tempting idea, you know it’s time to pick up axes and start training figure fours.

This year has been different, mostly because we are not in Umeå anymore. The weather is a bit warmer here and even though it’s already mid January, free climbing season is still going strong. At least if you are willing to drive a bit. 

Last weekend was the first time I actually tried to find some ice. I had a new guidebook for ice routes, sharp axes and a partner who has never climbed ice before. 


Totes Weib is a mixed climbing area in Mürztal. It was pretty warm, and even though the crag is at 900 meters, this is what was left from the ice. I wasn't too disappointed. After all, I was mostly interested about a good looking M9+, which was very steep and possible to climb without any ice. "14 figures four", says the guidebook.


 Of course the cool M9+ was on the other side of the river. "walk over the river when there is no water" says the guidebook. "Or make a rope bridge"


  We decided to check out another mixed climbing crag at Adlitzgräben. On the way we saw some nice walls at Rax (2007m)


 Nice couloirs!


 More R/X-skiing



 A new sector close to Adlitzgräben mixedwand


 At first we were a bit unsure if the crag was for mixed climbing, but apparently so. This is also a good reminder for those who would like to do some drytooling on free climbing crags. Don't do it.


It is steep! Later I found out that there are mixed routes up to M10


 This is the older mixed sector in Adlitzgräben. However, it was very warm and the free climbing sector was just a few hundres meters away....


 ...So we went to free climb instead :)


 Sun went down, but it was still incredibly warm.


 This was taken on the way back home...still quite warm!


 Next day was colder, so I came back to climb something with axes. This guy was bolting a new mixed route. He is the one who has established all mixed routes in the area.


 More random photos from last week. Hohe wand a week ago. The top is at 1100 and there was 50 cm of fresh snow...we should have gone snowboarding instead of climbing!


Hochkogel 


 The crag is south facing, and one of winter crags (for free climbing) around Vienna. 


 It's a bit like Niemisel in the spring season


The top on the wall was wet, probably because of the heavy snow fall from the previous day.



Hinterbrühl yesterday


 This is a shitty little crag, but it's just 5 km from our apartment.



 Sometimes I miss Swedish badass winter. Sometimes I'm pretty happy how things are.

Monday, January 5, 2015

X-mas in Osp

Haukkari is slowly turning into a sport climbing blog, but who cares. Osp is simply too good and too close to be ignored. This time we spent two weeks in the limestone paradise, and I'm pretty sure we are coming back soon.


  Good morning Slovenia


 Osp 



  Sunshine and steep limestone, helt okej! Me campusing Durango 7b+



 A Polish hardman on Hobit 7c



 This time we climbed also in Croatia. This is Pandora, one of the coolest sectors I've ever seen. Sometimes there is a waterfall coming through the big hole at the roof.


  This is Kompanj in Croatia, one of the biggest areas close to Buzet. It is about 40 km from Osp.



 Even if you prefer trad climbing, it's hard not to like the limestone in Croatia.


  Anu & Croatian via ferrata 



 Back in Osp. This time we took bikes with us for rest day activities. 


 Italy is just a few kilometers away. A big shopping center (with Decathlon) is 6 km from Osp.


 A view from the road to Osp



  The bridge


  A young gun and Hobit 7c



  Even younger gun, a nine-year-old girl on the sharp end 


  Anu & Jumbo 7a. Close but...


  Winter came to Osp.


  We cycled to Crni Kal to have a white Christmas


  The view from Crni Kal 



  A Slovenian castle


  The climbers' parking was easy to spot


  Back to basecamp, tea and a chess match


  Silvo's birthday party



  Misja Pec central wall, long and steep


 A random guy at Misja Pec


  Anu & Desna Bunkica 6b+


 A mandatory art photo of a tree



Happy new year!