Saturday, February 21, 2015

Hohe Wand 21.2.

 Sonneuhrwand at Hohe Wand. Sonnenhur (7- UIAA) follows dihedral systems on the left side of the photo. 

The weather was pretty warm considering it's still February. No need for long johns. 

 Anu and some elegant moves on pitch 3

The route was pretty sustained, (7-, 7-, 6-, 7-, 6+, 5+, 5) This was the last 7- pitch.

Me on the sixth pitch. The last 60 meters of the route was pretty juggy, or "schön" as the guidebook says.

 A local hero impressing the audience

 We climbed with only one 50 m rope, (and didn't have Sampsa with us to arrange the transport...) so we had to hike back to the car. On the way we found a restaurant so it took a bit longer than expected.

 The spring is on its way

Hohe wand, an Austrian version of Rösås

Tuesday, February 17, 2015

Osp mit Johan

A while ago Johan asked me if I would be interest to travel to Spain again. Some might remember our epic trip from last year. Even though Margalef is one of the best sport climbing areas I've been to, I found it very hard to see any reason to buy plane tickets to Spain. Osp is just a few hours away, and offers more steep lime stone you can handle.

So, instead of travelling to Spain, Johan came to Vienna. Unfortunately his baggage didn't arrive, but as he was smart enough to have his climbing shoes in the hand luggages (free tip for everyone), we decided to live on the edge and drive to Osp without his spare underwear.

 Osp, once again

 Misja Pec

 Johan getting peppad

 Soncni dnevi 7b. "Så jävla bra".

It's very technical and definitely steeper than it looks 

Johan enjoys Slovenian sun

 Me & Dalec stran je sodni dan 7b

Last time we met a biker with a full face helmet. He told me where to find a nice downhill track. He also said I would need all protections. I didn't believe him.

 A two-meter drop with bad landing... I guess the guy was right.

 Luckily most of the track was like this 

The track is pretty easy to find, just head towards Tinjan until you see the track beside the road. The other solution is to start from the end of the trail and push your bike up.

Back at the crag with Rex

Crni Biser 7c, yet another awesome line

 Johan & Suznji vertikale 7a+

 Party at the town

 Slovenia is a catholic country so they have their own carnival. It's like Rio de Janeiro but on a bit smaller scale. 

 Age of rock

Mandatory sunset photo. Nothing special but beats Vantaa.

Back in Mödling with 5 liters of Slovenian wine

Thursday, February 5, 2015


Stuhleck is a mid size ski resort in Semmering. It's nothing special compared to Obertauern, but it's only 85 km of motorway from Mödling which makes it quite popular also among Viennese. The top is at 1774 meters so there is a good chance a rainy day in Mödling equals to powder day at Stuhleck.

 Stuhleck 30.1.2015. Snow covered cars are always a good sign.

 If you have a chance to ride during the week, you can ride pretty much alone

 Stuhleck piste map

No sun, but a lot of fresh snow

The next day...we are not the only ones who thought that powder riding in the sun would be nice.

 Schneeberg seen from the road. There is some good skiing there as well.

 Stuhleck 31.1.

 Same same but different

 The powder was gone, but it was still a nice day

 Fika...the most important part of the day

Back in Narnia

Some snowy mountains

 Rax (I think)

 More nice lines, too bad you'd have to hike up

 Schneeberg seen from the south

Art photo of the day

Testing my new board

Sunday, January 25, 2015

Weekend warrior in Austria

Sampsa is known for his weekend trips around Europe. Longer climbing trips might be hard to combine with a family life, but sometimes a long weekend is all you need to climb something big.

This is actually often the case even when you have a lot of time. I have found that if I spent two weeks in Lofoten Islands, I would usually climb only one “big” route. A long route takes seldom more than a day or two and the rest of the climbing trip I would spend climbing shorter routes or resting from the long route. But these things you can also do at home. 

Anyhow, this time the plan was to climb some ice routes in Austria. A lovely idea, but as I posted last week, it’s a bit shy of ice at the moment. 

The good thing about Austria is that you can always find something to do. And I’m not just talking about cheap weissbeer.

Hohewand 17.1.2015.  +9 C.

We climbed  Zukunftsweiser 7+ UIAA, 180 meters

Sampsa & a tricky 6+ corner

The crux was a cool overhanging dihedral

Sampsa made quite an impression to the local girls at the top. It took less than 30 seconds and the girls were more than happy to give us a lift to our car. 

The next day was nice and sunny in Mödling, but for some reason we decided to drive to the base of Schneeberg, where it was not nice or sunny. Hiking in the rain is always super fun, but somehow we ended up here.

Slacklining at Kletterhalle Wien. At the same time Anu was snowboarding at Stuhleck, and soon powder riding started to sound like a good idea. 

Obertauern is voted for the best ski resort in Austria, and there should be about 140 cm of snow.


Helt okej!

Not much fresh powder, but we took what we got

Good thing about living in Austria is that you can make a day trip to a place like this

Sampsa & the clouds

We decided to hike a bit to find some virgin snow

Sampsa droppin’ in

Rainbow, halo, or some other cool stuff

Next day, back in Lower Austria. This is Adlitzmix mix M7/M7+ at Adlitzgräben

Steep and pumpy!

Sampsa made a cramponless ascent. 

We also found yet another mixed crag. It doesn’t look too special, but take a look at the’s pretty damn steep!