Monday, October 20, 2014

Wo sind die Klippen?

In Austria we have faced new kinds of problems. Those who have been to Frankenjura know what I’m talking about. Too many new crags around, it’s not obvious where to go for climbing. And if you find a nice crag, should you stay there or search for more? Yes, first world problems.

So far we have checked out dozens of crags, but most of them seem to be somewhat abandoned. It’s nice to be alone at the crag, but I have a feeling we haven’t found the best crags yet. Sometimes we have climbed some world class limestone, and other times found just a pile of loose shit with homemade bolts.

Adlitzgräben. 1 minute approach.

 Me looking at King size 8 (7a). Steep and juggy. Very similar to Ton sai roof.

Falkensteinhöhle at Adlitzgräben. Erfolg ist trainierbar reclimbed 11 (9a) on the left side.

Adlitzgräben has 9 sectors. Most of the routes are between 7a-8b. This is a very good place by any standard. For some reason we have been here only once.


 Looks nice but is unfortunately quite loose. 

 Maitre vauban und der basilisk 11 (9a). A 33-meter route which overhangs 12 meters. 

Hardest routes seem to be quite nice here. Anyway, this place offers very little for mid-level climbers like us. I don’t think we are coming back.

 View from Schattenreich.


 Rock quality is very good and it’s quite different from other areas. A lot of slopy pockets.

 A tufa!

Scheiblingkirchner wandl. This is one of my favorite places. It is just a small sector and a couple of routes. I have been here only once, but everything I’ve climbed here has been super good. Steep and juggy and not polished at all. Unfortunately the hardest route is 7c.

Niemandsland. This is the place to go when it’s hot in the summer.

 A local climber on Big sleep 9 (7c+)

Arnsteinhöhle. We have been here a few times and here I’ve climbed my hardest piece of Austrian limestone so far, Das dritte auge kundalini 9/9+ (7c/7c+)

 Energieembargo 9- (7b+). Dynamic belaying is a big no-no on this route. Try to find a fat belayer with a grigri.

 Anu and her shiny 29”. Approaches just became a bit more fun. 

 Thalhofergrat. Ok, this seems to be the place where people climb. 

15 sectors and hundreds of routes up to 8c+. It’s near to us and the approach is 1 minute to the closest sector. It is a pretty obvious choice for "after work"-climbing.

We just got yet another guidebook. 2000 routes only at Höllenthal area. This doesn’t really help with the problem.