In Austria we have faced new kinds of problems. Those who have been to Frankenjura know what I’m talking about. Too many new crags around, it’s not obvious where to go for climbing. And if you find a nice crag, should you stay there or search for more? Yes, first world problems.
So far we have checked out dozens of crags, but most of them seem to be somewhat abandoned. It’s nice to be alone at the crag, but I have a feeling we haven’t found the best crags yet. Sometimes we have climbed some world class limestone, and other times found just a pile of loose shit with homemade bolts.
Adlitzgräben. 1 minute approach.
Me looking at King size 8 (7a). Steep and juggy. Very similar to Ton sai roof.
Adlitzgräben has 9 sectors. Most of the routes
are between 7a-8b. This is a very good place by any standard. For
some reason we have been here only once.
Schattenreich
Looks nice but is unfortunately quite loose.
Maitre vauban und der basilisk 11 (9a). A 33-meter route which overhangs 12 meters.
Hardest routes seem to be quite nice here. Anyway, this place
offers very little for mid-level climbers like us. I don’t think we are
coming back.
View from Schattenreich.
Schatzinsel
Rock quality is very good and it’s quite different from other areas. A lot of slopy pockets.
A tufa!
Scheiblingkirchner wandl. This is one of my favorite places. It is just
a small sector and a couple of routes. I have been here only once, but
everything I’ve climbed here has been super good. Steep and juggy and
not polished at all. Unfortunately the hardest route is 7c.
Niemandsland. This is the place to go when it’s hot in the summer.
A local climber on Big sleep 9 (7c+)
Arnsteinhöhle. We have been here a few times and here
I’ve climbed my hardest piece of Austrian limestone so far, Das dritte
auge kundalini 9/9+ (7c/7c+)
Energieembargo 9- (7b+). Dynamic belaying is a big no-no on this route. Try to find a fat belayer with a grigri.
Anu and her shiny 29”. Approaches just became a bit more fun.
Thalhofergrat. Ok, this seems to be the place where people climb.