Wednesday, July 24, 2013

Roadtripping, Cadarese

According to the guidebook, ”Cadarese is probably the most various and largest crack climbing area in central Europe.” Being at 900 meters, crags facing north and big trees shading routes, the place sounded almost too good to be true.

Surprisingly, our first impression was not that good. Approach was steep, exposed and slippery because of wet leaves, and when we finally found cracks, they were BOLTED!? In some rare cases, for example because of the rock quality, I understand bolts on cracks, but now we were looking 100% solid cracks covered with unnecessary bolts. Actually, there had been some discussion about the bolts and some of the routes have been chopped already. 

Rock in Cadarese is gneiss and routes, especially in sport sector, looked a bit like routes in Flatanger. Anyway, we are more into trad climbing, and when we finally walked up to sector called “crack-party”, we understood what all the fuss on Cadarese is about.

Our first night in Cadarese. The parking area was closed because of a cycling competition, so we drove to the next village (about 500 m) and decided to sleep in the parking lot of a church. This was a bad decision as the the church's bell was banging every hour. Even with ear plugs it was quite impossible to sleep.


Cadarese from the crag. It's not a big town, actually the thermal bath on the left is about the same size than the village.

 Beginning of the approach, Lower sector is on the background

 Central sector, bolted cracks


 More bolted cracks

 Approach to Crack-party 

 Approach is quite exposed... In many cases there is a 30-meter drop right next to the path.

 Most exposed parts were fixed with a rope

 Our first route was a bolted crack in central sector 

 Anu warming up on Ciao (5)

 La Freccia (6b+) Anu on-sighted this one 

Largo(6b) Cool undercling / hand jam traverse

 Cadarese is known for hard grades...can't remember the last time I was so tired after a 6b crack

 Fessura Fallica (6b+)... a nice dihedral on upper sector 

 Foglie Cadenti (6b). This beauty used to be bolted as well

 The Doors

 Mission Gin Lemon (6b+) starts as a thin hand and ends as a off-width :)

 A random wide crack we couldn't find from the guidebook

 Bookcake (7c+) Very cool overhanging dihedral. The guidebook calls it “desperate” and I believe without trying

 Mustang (8a) 

 Turkey Crack (8a). Martin from Czech Republic testing the famous off-width.