Friday, July 26, 2013

Roadtripping, Turkey Crack (8a)

Turkey Crack is probably best known from the Turkey Crack-film and Tom Randall's blog post about when he did the second ascent, on-sight, to this wide roof-crack. After that, it's been quiet. Well, not really, as it seems there is someone cursing on the route on every weekend. Still, the route has not seen more ascents.

The roof was a bit longer than I expected, starting as a Camalot #5 and ending as a Camalot #4. However, the route continues for another 15 meters of thin hand crack, which was quite technical and definitely harder than I thought it would be. Actually, when I did the route, it was the first time I could climb the upper part without resting on gear.

I trained the roof for four days, or 8 tries (I could only do two tries a day, it's kinda hard workout...), and I had tested the upper part twice. After resting for two days, I hang-dogged the route as a warm-up, waited for an hour, and climbed the route.

According to local climbers, my ascent was the third to the route. They seem to be a bit embarrassed by the fact that no Italian has been able to climb the route... 

 The Turkey Crack and a local climber Lucas with powerful “no feet”-beta

 Swiss working on the route. The crack continues on the face for about 7 meter beyond the photo

 The first fist jam and the fun starts (c) Lucas Iribarren

 “Feet first” -beta seems to be most used on this route. This might be easier with small feet, but for me with 44,5 feet, it wasn't the best way to go. Actually, big hands, big forearms and small feet might be the best combo. (c) Lucas Iribarren

 Last desperate moves in the roof. For me the hardest part was to pull myself over the edge.

 This was my first 8a trad route, time to drink some sparkling wine! 

Lucas and Chiara invited us for a dinner. And yes, we ate turkey!