Wednesday, July 17, 2013

Roadtripping, Frankenjura

We have a little problem with our pre-paid internet (namely, it does not work) so everything comes with a little delay.

Anyway, Frankenjura was our first place to stop for climbing. For those who don't know, Frankenjura is known for mushroom-shaped limestone pillars, bouldery routes and cheap beer. Actually, the beer in itself is enough reason for a quick stop while driving through Europe.

500+ crags in a small area makes it perfect for hard cranking. And if you manage to climb without breaking your fingers in monos, you probably get sick strong. 


 Frankenjura, or Student to be more precise


 Stadeltenne, Anu on Alltag in Franken 6c

 
 A weird thing. As soon as we got off the motorway, we run into Valtsu.


 Valtsu getting his ass kicked by a random 9- (7b+)


 Another 9-, Krieg und Frieden


 This was a nice route, we did the direct version as the traverse with cool holes was wet


 I've heard it's impossible to climb with kids. I guess Valtsu and Riina didn't know that...


Abgestaubt 7a+


 Anu sending Heldbräu 7a 



 I'm getting spanked by Lonestar 7b+ 


 Andeltodrom. Doesn't look much, but for me, this was the best place in Frankenjura. Steep and juggy :)


 Anu didn't like this crag too much, but climbed Kauabouga 7a 

 
 Cumbawamba 7b+. This was a good day for me. I redpointed this one and on-sighted three 7a's


 Feeling stronger than ever, I pulled out this little hold on some 6c route


 It just missed Anu, but went nicely through our thai-mat 


 I think this 20 kg torpedo would have had the potential to go through a helmet as well. Still, it's not a bad idea to use helmet in sport climbing, especially while belaying. Loose holds tend to fall down.


 Pottenstein 


 The main street


 Another street 


 In Pottenstein, everyone has a crag in their backyard


 Romantic rest day walking in Pottenstein 


 Home sweet home. It was so cold that we needed to have the gas heater on during the night 


And yes, these are the reasons why we love Frankenjura