Sunday, June 7, 2015

Multipitch course in Wienerwald

Wienerwald is the beautiful, hilly forest located southwest from Vienna. Peilstein, Thalhofergrat and Hohe Wand are some of the most known climbing areas in the forest, and well within an hour's drive from the city. While Hohe Wand is probably the biggest rock face in the forest, there are shorter multipitch routes on almost every crag. 

Peilstein is one of the best places to train multipitch climbing. Rock is solid, most of the bolts are glue-in bolts and anchors are usually equipped with a chain and a “pigtail” or ring for rappelling. The easiest bolted multipitch route is Alpenklubsteig  (2+, 2, 2), and you can find some seriously good climbing around grade 3. Altogether, there are about 1000 routes, and the hardest route is 8c+. I think it is fair to say: there are routes for everyone.

Those who are interested in about grade 3 multipitch climbing might also appreciate the fact that you can get beer not only from the parking lot, but also from the top of Peilstein. 

Kari and Atte came by to have a climbing course

Kari on Vegetariersteig 3

Vegetarierkante 4 is a bit sparsely bolted, but you can put some gear between the bolts, as the route follows a crack system.

Climbing is quite exposed for the grade

 Belaying from the top of Vegetarierkante  

 Atte starts rappelling

You can usually get down by rappelling twice with a 60-meter rope

 Kari on Linker Balloun 4+

Atte belaying on the top of Teufelsbadstubensteig 2, this is nice way to continue Linker Balloun

Atte on Alpenklubsteig 2+, once again, pretty good climbing for the grade.

 Atte felt strong enough to take the overhanging Herrenklubsteig 3+ variation  

 Mandatory photo from the top of Cimone. There are many routes to the top, but Weg der Erstersteigen 3+, 90 m is the most popular.

 Next stop, Hohe Wand

 Kari on Draschgrat 5+, 200m

 This is the first pillar on the route

 Atte on the top of the first pillar

 Kari on an overhanging section on the second pillar

 Atte following an easy arête

 Kari aka "When I was in Nam"

An overhanging crack system is the route crux 

 The third pillar

Kari starts the seventh and last pitch

  Neue Turnerbergsteigen-Kante 7, is visible on the background. The route goes on steep pillar and is "one of the best and nicest pleasure-climbing routes at Hohe Wand". Easy to believe.

 The end of Draschgrat is steep and juggy

On the top!

 Arnstein is known for steep sport climbing, but there are several multipitch routes as well. 

 Kari on Mutzsteig 5  

 An overhanging jug fest

 Atte continues via Zigeunerquergang 4

 The pillar would be the third pitch, but bolts have been recently removed to protect the narrow pillar 

 Atte on Mayerfährte 3-

 Kari and Atte stayed in Austria for the whole week, so we had plenty of time for both climbing and practicing different situations 

 This is what people usually do in Arnsteinhöhle. Me on Desire 9. It goes through the whole roof and is the best and hardest 7c:ish route in the cave 

Climbing might be fun, but this is still the best part of the day