Wednesday, July 16, 2014

Last bits of Umeå action

There has been a lot of development in Rösås (before the ban of course), and five new routes/projects have been established. The easiest is Anu´s Flapjack (6c+), a nice but tricky route. Nearby Ässä mix (7b) is a steep route with big jugs. Two no-hand kneebars in the steepest section!! A few meters to the left is super steep and bouldery Missä X (7c+). The steepest line in the cave is an open project. Also, I decided to bolt the old project at Ravinen. It’s too hard for me, but something for Urban, Mikko and other hard core crimpers in Umeå.

I also climbed a new route to Blåberget. “Ranka” (7a) is an impressive arete, a bit similar to Kanten but easier and even more exposed! Climbing is very technical: compression moves, pinches and hooking.

The route starts from a big ledge, 25 meters above the ground. It’s possible to reach the route by climbing Skiljelinjen´s first pitch (6b+) or a hard and bold variation to Steneld, or rappel from the top. Ranka is completely bolted, you need 11 draws.

The variation to Steneld is a straight line and a logical “individual” 1st pitch to Ranka. It is basically 20 meters of Steneld and then after the crux you climb straight to the Skiljelinjens mid anchor via short crack. I cleaned the crack, did all the moves, but I didn’t have time (=balls) to climb it. But it’s very doable and open project for anyone.

So, a lot of new climbing around Umeå, have fun! Here is a topo to Rösås.

Btw. Swedish climbing association did a short interview about me. You can find it from associations new website

Flapjack 6c+

 The new sector in Rösås is pretty steep! Me coming down from Missä X 7c+

Blåberget. Ranka is the obvious arete in the middle of the photo.