Monday, August 26, 2013

Roadtripping, Simplon Dorf

Ceüse is not the only place for summer sport climbing. Simplon Dorf in southern Switzerland, close to the Italian border, is a good option for hot days. The crag is at 1500 meters, in shade most of the day, and the cold breeze makes sure your belayer needs a down jacket even when it's +30 at the parking lot. And the parking lot is not that far, the approach is about 10 minutes.

Simplon Dorf is made for on-sighting. Routes are steep, long, up to 38 meter (most of the routes being 25-30 m), filled with huge jugs and well protected. I usually like to climb sport with heavy-duty quickdraws, but in Simplon Dorf, as you need about 15 draws on a route, I would rather climb with lighter draws.

The down side is that there isn't anything really hard. Just one 8a and one 7c+. And easier routes (6a-6b range) are not that special. But if you like juggy sport climbing in 6c-7c range, this place is pretty damn good. 

 Parking lot is quite nice, Simplon Dorf-city on the background

 Approach is not too bad

 Simplon Dorf, there are two sectors and 53 routes

 Thesi 7b, a long pumpfest

 Huxley's letzte7b+, another great route

 Paris-Verzi, a nice 6c. But Zebra 6c is way better

 We are not the only ones who like Simplon Dorf

 Young girl on Stradineri 6b. She climbed the route with one rest

 Me on Heldenepos 7b. Apparently the name means "route for heroes", or something, which explains unusual bolting 

 A random peak seen from the parking lot